I've had quite a few e-mails wanting directions to the local boulderfields, Bearfields and Jedi Boulders, that I climb at...unfortunately, due to the problems with parking and using private property to access these boulders, I am unable to tell anyone where they are. We are working on solidifying a permanent point of access and to verify that bouldering is OK by the land management, but until then please look to other places mentioned in my blog for your bouldering.
Over many many years, I have worked hard to maintain a good relationship with the property owners, and they haven't minded us trespassing occasionally to hike around and climb on the boulders. It took years of trust to be able to do this as often as I am able to now. Due to the fact that it is not my property, I cant grant anyone the right to come and climb at these places. At this pivotal point in the status of these boulders, we cant take a chance on compromising the already good relationship by allowing more people to climb here, because it would have a direct impact on the future of these boulders and the possibilities of anyone climbing on them.
I do want to point people in the right direction to get their fix...I know how some of you feel when it seems like there isn't any rock around to climb on. We are going to start focusing on developing an area that will serve as a good test piece for future bouldering access in the upstate. Our goal is to provide a spot that everyone can have directions and a guide/topo to and help contribute in the development of the problems in the area. If the bouldering community can prove responsible at this area, it will go a long way to opening more access on other state and federal land...especially some of the upstate motherloads in Table Rock and Jones Gap State Park.
The area I'm referring to is Little Eastatoee, listed as one of the local spots out to the right. There are some great boulders along the Creek Access to Long Shoals Roadside Park, but the even better boulders are down the road near the parking at the bridge over the creek. There are at least 50 possible lines on the boulders in the parking lot, granted that they need to be cleaned and climbed, that should serve as a good start. These problems are not going to be easy, so most will eventually end up in the V3 and above range, but there are a few easy problems here and there to warm up on. A video of The Finger, a fun V2 beside the Big Slab, along with a slideshow movie with pictures of the area and many of the boulders...AND directions, and my first thoughts/topo drawings, including 35 routes or possible routes, will be coming in the next posting in a day or two!