New Upstate SC Local Spot: Beasley Gap

My apologies for not getting the Beasley Gap Bouldering Guide up yet, it has continued to evolve over the last couple of weeks with new FA's and variations of existing problems. The guide will have around 60 or so problems from Vb-V5 and will sport color photo topo's of each the 11 boulders/boulder sets that have been climbed so far. I should have it completed and published early next week for everyone to enjoy! Until then, here is a little teaser of what you'll see as well as, enough beta to get you to the boulders and on a few of the better routes in the area. Here is the overall map of the area...


Here is an example of one of the topo's you're gonna see.


And here's a quick key to this topo too, in case you stop by and want to climb some of the problems before I can get the full guide up...
1) Beasley Bulge V1
2) Beasley Bowl V2
3) Early Bird Direct V3
4) Blue Bird Days V2/3
5) Early Bird Special V5/6
6) Crystal Crymps V2
7) Mossed Over V0

Above is a shot of me on Bob's Place V2 on the Beasley Gap Boulder, another great boulder full of fun climbs.

So you might ask..."How do I get to these sweet boulders?" Follow the directions below, beginning at Holly Springs Grocery, which is at the junction of Highway 11 and Highway 178, in northern Pickens county.


Directions: From the junction of Highways 11 and 178, head north on hwy 178 toward Rosman and Sassafras Mountain. In a little over 4 miles, and around 1 mile past Bob’s Place Bar, there is a small gravel pull off, big enough for 3-4 cars, on the right...park here. DO NOT park on 178 beside the trailhead....this can jeopardize access!

Approach: Walk along the road for another 100 yards until you see the yellow blazed Palmetto Trail cut to the right away from the road at the “No Parking” sign...go over a small foot bridge and past the information board to the first boulder, the Beasley Gap Boulder. You can approach the Beast area by either hanging a right onto the logging road that cuts away from 178, before you get to the trailhead, and then taking the first logging road to the left, which will put you out at the base of the Beast area…or you can go past the Beasley Gap Boulder to the first switchback in the Palmetto Trail and follow the small trail to the right to get to the top of the area.

Remember that bouldering is a new activity to this area and others have used this land for longer than we have…respect everyone you meet and be friendly!


The Camelback Boulder above has seen few ascents...I'm on the low crux of One Hump V2 in the above picture.

I have concocted 3 circuits of around 25-35 problems each, from beginner to intermediate, that are a great way to enjoy the area. Along with the 3 circuits, there is also a unique "4 pitch boulder problem" called The Beast, that climbs the better routes up the Beast area...a great way to climb 4 V1-V2 routes back to back (to back to back)! Stay tuned next week for the release of the Beasley Gap Bouldering Guide and beta on all of the routes, circuits and The Beast!